Cold War Manchester Tour from Ian Sanders, Host of the Cold War Conversations History Podcast

 

Ian Sanders, host and creator of the Cold War Conversations History Podcast

pointing out Manchester World War II history. An alarm to get the attention of fire watchers stationed atop buildings in Manchester.

I visited Manchester UK recently to meet Ian Sanders in person, after knowing him for several years as the creator and host of the Cold War Conversations History Podcast. He started the podcast in 2018 as a way to preserve the stories of the people who lived through the Cold War, served in the military in the Cold War, and had stories about their part in this long simmering worldwide conflict. 

The podcast is now in its 277th episode,  about "The Most Damaging Female Spy in Us History." The podcast has had more than two million downloads in the past half decade. 

The tour began with the picture above. Many buildings in Manchester had fire watchers during World War II. In December 1940 the Nazis fire bombed Manchester to devastating effect. More than 700 people were killed in two terrible nights of fire bombing.

Ian showed me a memorial to those who lost their lives. A metal tree with all of the names inscribed in the trunk.

We visited a memorial to the World War II code-breaker and computer innovator Alan Turing. He is from the Manchester area and took his own life near the city during the Cold War.  

We had lunch in the Manchester Art Museum: haddock sandwiches with mushy peas.

Then went upstairs to see a famous painting of the Battle of Balaclava--in the Crimean War.  The painting is the aftermath of the infamous Charge of the Light Brigade in which the brave 600 who charged the Russian cannon were all but wiped out.  

We also saw a funny 19th Century "Union Jack" view of the world:

Almost four years ago, before the pandemic, Ian interviewed me for the podcast. In episodes 38 and 41 we talked about US Army tank training and serving on the Cold War border in Fulda, West Germany. the podcast is audio, but the recording of the second interview about Fulda has more than 7,000 downloads on YouTube.

As we walked toward the train station at the end of the visit, Ian showed me the entrance of a huge underground telecommunications facility built under Manchester during the Cold War. It is still in operation today. 

This was my first visit to Manchester. Now I know the city has much more than a famous football club!! 

Voraigh Sisters--A Paris Boutique of Traditional Clothing

On a very busy boulevard near Bastille on the east side of Paris is the small boutique:

VORAIGH Sisters from Ancient Lands.  They describe the store:

Founded in 2008 by sisters and violinists Olivia & Vivien and their mother Bruna, who taught them a passion for historical and traditional arts. Our workshop is based in a small village not far from Paris, on the edge of the magical forest of Fontainebleau.

I learned about the store from Sarah Gingrich. She found it on line.  Sarah's family accuses her of dressing like a Hobbit (when she is not dressing like a Viking) so this is her kind of shop.

They Voraigh web site describes their business:

Voriagh (synonym of Varangian, in Old Norse: Væringjar; Greek: Βάραγγοι, Βαριάγοι) is the name used by the Byzantine Empire and the Eastern Slavs for the Vikings, (víkingar, from Old Norse) traded from their Northern European homelands across central, eastern and western Europe.

We create in deep connection with nature and ancient lands across Europe, influenced by folklore and ancient crafts. 

Following strict guidelines in terms of sustainability for material and craft, our small structure relies on two skilled families: one in France and one in India, mastering an infinite panel of techniques, completing each other by offering high expertise and traditional embroideries for several generations. In addition to this close relation, we provide transparency and certifications by Oekotex and the BSCI for both structures. 

They make clothes in France:  Our wool and linen items are made in a family workshop in Paris. The atelier is located rue Oberkampf and collaborates exclusively with small designer and/or ethical brands.

And in India:  Our cotton clothes are made in New Delhi by a high end workshop certified by the BSCI, a label based on the most important international Conventions protecting the workers’ rights such as the International Labour Organisation (ILO) Conventions and other important Declarations of the United Nations, the OECD guidelines for multinational enterprises and the UN Global Compact. The BSCI Code includes the ten following key elements to improve the worker´s situation:

The shop is in a lovely neighborhood just north of the Seine on the east side of Paris.

 

Meeting High School Classmates at a Paris Gallery Opening: Paul Campbell is a Featured Artist

On Tuesday I arrived in Paris and wrote on Facebook that I had an empty row to myself on the flight over.  One of the commenters was Susan Campbell who said she and her husband Paul were in Paris and Paul had an opening at a gallery in the 11th Arrondisment on the east side of Paris toward Vincennes.

I visited the gallery for the opening and had a lovely time talking to Susan and Paul. They had only been to one of the class reunions so we had not seen each other since Stoneham in 1971.  

Paul and Susan live in Brooklyn and Cape Cod, so we are going to get together in the next couple of months before they go off to live in the most well-known beach community in New England.

One of the gallery opening attendees took a picture of the three of us in in front of several of Paul's paintings.  You can see more of Paul's work here.

Tanks Attack, They are Designed for Offense

 

From their first use as land battleships in World War I, tanks are an attack weapon.  They can be used in defense, but as my last post pointed out, the German force attacking France in 1940 was outnumbered and outgunned by the British and French tanks in defense. And France surrendered in five weeks.  

Speculation is rampant on line and in the media that the Russians will attack in the spring before Ukraine can take delivery of the NATO tanks promised to them recently.  They could be right, but nothing the Russians have done in the past month or the past year gives me much worry that the Russians will put together an overwhelming attack against Ukraine.  

The military generic term for armor is MPF--Mobile Protected Firepower.  This includes not only main battle tanks but armored personnel carriers like the Bradley Fighting Vehicle which the US is sending to Ukraine already.  The Bradley is fast, is armed with a 25mm rapid-fire cannon and can carry an infantry squad into battle.  

With a large number of MPFs and trained crews supported with fuel and ammo, the Ukrainian army can punch through the Russian lines and destroy their command posts and supply lines.  

German Leopard 2 tanks are faster, more reliable and have vastly better gun sights and gun controls than the Russian tanks opposite them.  More importantly, Ukraine has shown in other battles that they will know how to use armor. They will mass their tanks at a weak point in the Russian defense and break through.  

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I bought the t-shirt I am wearing (above) and the Deutsche Panzer Museum.  It says, "Tanks are not Neutral." They are offensive weapons.  I look forward to wearing this shirt while watching or listening to news about Ukrainian victories in the coming year.  

A German soldier I was talking to in the museum said the shirt is also ironic.  The German Army, like many armies and government organization, is trying to use more gender neutral language.  German is a very gendered language and Panzer is a male-gendered word. The shirt is also a protest of making the word Panzer gender neutral.

Tactics, Not Just Numbers, Win Tank Battles

The Panzer I, armed with just machine guns was 

no match for any French or British tank.

The common view of the first year of World War II is that the British and French armies were routed and defeated in six weeks by a superior German armored force using Blitzkrieg tactics. 

The truth is, the invading Germans were outnumbered and outgunned by the defenders of France. They won because Erwin Rommel commanded 7th Panzer Division at the front of the invading German Army carrying out a brilliant invasion plan. The British and French had a combined 3,000 tanks, all of which had cannons capable of destroying any of the German tanks in the invasion force. 

The British Matilda tank. 

Better armed and armored than most German tanks in France in 1940

The Germans had 2,000 tanks, hundreds of them armed with just machine guns. But the Germans concentrated nearly all their armor on a 20-mile invasion front, while the British and French spread their tanks from the Swiss border to the English Channel. Rommel punched through the allied lines. He personally waded into rivers when his engineers were making bridges for his tanks. Rommel broke through the allied lines and captured huge formations. 

Without Rommel carrying out a brilliant invasion plan by General Heinz Guderian, the allied army could have stopped or slowed the German advance and dragged out the war in France. The great early success of Rommel, Guderian and the German Army led Hitler to invade Eastern Europe and the Soviet Union.

Weapons of every kind are wielded by soldiers.  How the weapon is used, as much as the weapon itself, determines the outcome of battles.

Tanks Devour Fuel, Ammo and Spare Parts: Ukraine will be training tank crews, mechanics, and supply crews

 

M559 Goer Fuel Truck

One long night in November of 1977, my tank crew was on our third week of training in the West German countryside near the East-West border. We needed fuel. The 375-gallon fuel tank in our M60A1 Patton tank was at half full. To be combat ready, we needed to refuel.  Usually we refueled when the big M559 Goer fuel truck pulled up alongside us.  Other nights we would pull out of the line and go to the Goer.

M60A1 Patton tanks

On this night, the Goers were gone. I never learned what happened, but our only option was carrying five-gallon cans of fuel 200 meters up the hill from a five-ton truck with a fuel pod.  Two of us had to stay with the tank, while two of us carried the 40-pound jerrycans up and down the hill. We stopped at 100 gallons of fuel, 20 cans. Tanks drink fuel. We needed more fuel the next day; thankfully, the Goers were back.

German Leopard 2 Tank

I was thinking about walking uphill with eighty pounds of fuel when I heard the news about German Leopard 2 tanks going to Ukraine.  The BBC news report was talking about NATO training crews for the tank. Ukraine will also be training soldiers to fix, to resupply fuel and ammo and follow close behind the tanks with everything that a 60-ton, 1,500-horsepower tracked vehicle consumes.  

A Leopard 2 can fire on the move at up to 50 mph with its advanced electronic sights and gun stabilization computers.  It can fire a dozen cannon rounds per minute. But a Leopard only carries 42 120mm cannon rounds.  At a dozen rounds per minute, it would be out of ammo in four minutes.  To reload, the tank has to leave the battle area and go back a supply depot. 

Crew handing rounds up and into a Japanese Type 90 Tank.

At the supply point, each round is handed from a platform beside the tank or up from the ground. Each round is then handed through the loader's hatch and stowed in racks in the turret and hull of the tank. Even the fastest crew will take ten minutes or more to stow 42 rounds inside the tank. 

In a battle, a single tank can burn more than one hundred gallons of fuel, more than one hundred rounds of cannon ammunition and upwards of 5,000 rounds of machine gun ammunition. 

Abrams tanks in attack training exercise

A battalion of 50 tanks and fifty more support vehicles burns more than 100 gallons per mile of fuel. In a sustained attack it will fire 5,000 rounds of cannon ammo and a half-million rounds of machine gun ammo. If the attack covers 20 miles, the battalion will consume upwards of 100 tons of ammo and fuel in a day. All that fuel and ammo has to follow the tanks to the edge of the battle. 

Logistics win wars, said every general from Napoleon to now.  The Russians have shown themselves to be terrible at logistical support.  With these new tanks, Ukraine will get another chance to show how much better they are than the Russians, both fighting with the tanks and keeping the hungry beasts supplied.

The Death Camp Next Door: The Sites Where the Holocaust Happened

Auschwitz Barracks

 

Auschwitz rail siding where prisoners were sorted

 for slave labor or extermination

In March I will be speaking to a group at my synagogue about visiting death camps. More specifically, I will be talking about why I visited eight different death camps between 2017 and last year. Actually nine visits since I went to Auschwitz/Birkenau in both 2017 and 2021. 

Auschwitz Gate

It was not my original intention to visit so many death camps. In 2017, I wanted to see the worst death camp, the place where the Holocaust was the worst outside of a death camp, and a place where Jews left and did not return.  That year I rode from Belgrade, a place that once had a large Jewish community but now has none, to Auschwitz, the largest death camp, to Lviv, Ukraine, where the Jews were completely wiped out by their neighbors. The Nazis did not have to do anything.

The fence at Birkenau

Until 2017, I had never visited a Holocaust Memorial or a Holocaust Museum or a Death Camp. I lived in Germany from 1976-79, so I certainly had the opportunity, but I grew up in a very non-religious home, so the Holocaust was something that happened that no one I knew talked about.  

Then in 2016, Steve Bannon was named Co-Chief-of-Staff in the White House. He owned Brietbart.com, the host of Nazi and fascist web sites.  

In early 2017 I planned a trip that would take me to the worst of the Holocaust.  After riding from Belgrade to Lviv by way of Auschwitz, I visited the first concentration camp. It was a warehouse in the state of Hesse, Germany, put in service to Hitler in February 1933.  It was not a death camp. Anti-Nazi journalists and academics were the first inmates.

Less than a month after I returned from my 2017 trip, Nazis with torches marched in Charlottesville and the President said there were "fine people" on both sides of the protest. He was wrong. Nazis are evil. Nazi sympathizers are evil. I knew I should visit more death camps and be ready to fight Nazis wherever they crawled out from under rocks. Especially now that they had a friend in the American President.

In 2019, just months before the beginning of the COVID epidemic, I was in Germany again. My friend Cliff and I visited the Buchenwald and Dachau death camps. 

After visiting four death camps, it became clear that every camp was very different, built where it was for very different reasons and carrying out its mission of murder in its own way. 

On my first visit, I was stunned to see the Auschwitz camp was right in the town of Oswiecim, Poland, right near the Catholic Church. The Nazis need a rail junction and barracks to make the biggest death camp. Oswiecim in southern Poland offered both. And the town now lives with the legacy of horror. 

Buchenwald was built on a hill above Weimar, where the government was before the Nazis.  Hitler built Buchenwald on a hill above Weimar as a raised middle finger to Germans who hated the Nazis. They camp was visible and the smell of death floated down from the camp on the hill.

Dachau, was built early in the Nazi regime. It is first facility built as a concentration camp (Hesse was a converted warehouse) and remained in operation until the end of the war, in part as a "School of Violence." It is right on the edge of the town and, like Buchenwald, not hidden in any way. Dachau is in Bavaria, the most pro-Nazi region of Germany, so the hate was on display.

In 2021 I was vaccinated and returned to Germany.  Cliff and I visited the Flossenburg death camp in Bavaria, Auschwitz/Birkenau and Terezin.  Later in the same trip, I went to Berlin and visited Sachsenhausen. 

Last year on the way to Denmark, Cliff and I visited the Bergen Belsen and Mittlebau-Dora death camps.

Each camp shows another dimension of the Holocaust. I plan to visit more of the camps on future trips to Europe.

I wrote about most of the visits. I will write about the Belsen, Mittlebau-Dora and Sachsenhausen camps by the beginning of March. 

My first visit to Auschwitz is here.  

The Hesse camp is here.

Buchenwald is here.

Dachau is here.

Preview of the 2021 trip is here.

The 2021 visit to Auschwitz is here.

Flossenburg is here.

Terezin is here.

More Photos from PanzerMuseum East, Denmark

Soviet missiles, motorcycles, machine tools, models and helicopters at the PanzerMuseum East, Denmark.

This museum was built as a warning against possible Russian aggression. 

With the Russian invasion of Ukraine, that warning became prophetic. Here is my first post on the museum. 

 

The Physics of War: From Arrows to Atoms by Barry Packer, Book 1 of 2023

My first book of 2023 is one I was reading off and on through most of last year. It is an odd book that is more history than science, but not history of science. It is a history of weapons that has some very simple physics added to the descriptions to show how the weapons work.  

In its pages are brief origin stories of weapons, such as the long bow and the hydrogen bomb, with some details about the science behind them.  

If you are looking for a history of weapons with a little of the physics of how they work, this book is just what you have been looking for.  If you are looking for details of the science that underpins airplanes, bombs, and missiles, the references in the index will point you to deeper treatment of individual weapons.  

One very helpful aspect of the book is reading about the pace of weapons development and how rapidly those weapons changed war.  The first gatling gun, the predecessor of the machine gun, was developed in the mid 19th Century. Very little was done with it for a couple of decades, then at the beginning of the 20th Century the multi-barrel gatling gun had developed from a large horse-drawn-carriage weapon to a compact, deadly single-barrel weapon that could be fired by two soldiers.  The slaughter of World War I was in part set up by the machine gun which forced stagnant warfare and massive use of cannons.

The first aircraft flew in 1903. By 1916, both sides in World War I had fighter and bomber aircraft over the battlefields.  The first lumbering tanks rolled to battle at 3-5 mph at the end of that war. 

Two decades later tanks were fast, mobile and massed in thousands for invasion covered by swarms of bombers.  The war ended when those bombers dropped the first atomic bombs.  Radar and espionage get their due in this brief history with a nod to drones at the very end. 

Interesting history of weapons with a sprinkle of physics.  

 

From Arctic Norway to Israel to South America, Pandemic Travel

 

Bodo, Norway, at 2am on June 21 this year.

In the three pandemic years ending this month, I have traveled to twenty-one countries on four continents. I was going to write about traveling this year, the third year of COVID-19, but decided that travel this year is a continuation of the strange travel during all of the pandemic. Since February of 2020, I visited twenty-one countries, seven countries for the first time: four in 2020, three in 2022. 

A Ferrari at the Museum of the 24-hour race at LeMans

From Arctic Norway on the summer solstice to winter in Israel to equatorial Bogata, Columbia, to southeast Poland, to the Republic of Georgia, I made eight trips overseas between February of 2020 and December of this year. 

The cemetery at Omaha Beach in Normandy, France. I visited in 2017

In the three years before the pandemic, from 2017 to 2019, I was in twenty-nine countries, twenty of them for the first time.  Over the six years from 2017 to 2022, I was in thirty-nine different countries, twenty-seven for the first time, on five continents (I haven't been to Australia since 2000). 

Half of the countries I visited for the first time were part of a five-week trip in 2017. It was my first trip to Eastern Europe. I rode a bicycle from Belgrade, Serbia, to Lviv, Ukraine. On that ride I passed through nine countries. After the ride I visited Israel, Monaco and Sweden for the first time, plus returning to nine more countries I had visited before.

In his book Doom Niall Ferguson says he was warning colleagues in late January 2020 that a real pandemic was coming from China and would sweep the world. He was ignored.  He and his colleagues went to the annual Davos conference in early February--the attendees were dismissive.  It was the flu. It was a replay of SARS from the early 2000s.  Ferguson was right. The Davos consensus was wrong.

My February-March 2020 trip was haunted by the looming pandemic. I arrived in Europe February 12, landing in Paris.  I took a train to Darmstadt, Germany, where I met my friend Cliff. We flew from Frankfurt to Israel by way of Rome.  In the Rome airport we were escorted through the terminal by a woman who could have been a Drill Sergeant.  

Of all of Europe, the pandemic was at its worst in Italy. We just made our connecting flight and flew to Tel Aviv. In Jerusalem we stayed inside the walls of the Old City.  We heard that a whole plane of Korean tourists was sent home because of COVID on the plane.  We continued with our tour plans. A week later, I flew to the Republic of Georgia. Cliff flew home. 

I was supposed to visit Kyiv next, but went straight to Athens instead because of COVID reports in Ukraine.  I was supposed to visit Rome after Athens, but stayed in Athens a full week, taking a fast car trip to North Macedonia and Bulgaria. After Athens was supposed to be Rwanda.  But then I thought it would be more difficult to travel from Africa if COVID got worse. So I went to the Pyrenees for a few days, then back to Paris.  

America closed its borders on Friday the 13th in March 2020. Paris started closing around me. My ticket home was for the 17th and was cancelled on that day. I decided to wait and not join the tens of thousands of people trying to return to America on full planes and customs lines a mile long. 

There are worse places to be stuck than Paris.  It turns out bakeries are an essential service in France. I had lovely bakery takeout food to eat while I rode the empty streets of Paris.  My plane left on time and not crowded after all.  JFK airport was empty on the 17th of March. I made a one-way car rental and drove home.

Since the vaccine became available, travel in other countries meant changing rules at each border. But the rules were clear and people complied. Poland and the UK were very relaxed. Germany required masks on trains and planes right up to September of 2022. Brazil still mandates masks on public transportation. 

Outside the U.S. I could know what the rules were and expect those around me would follow the rules. In America, every boundary was a new policy. In Lancaster, Pennsylvania, where I live, COVID policy was different in the city than in the rest of the county. It was true all over the country. 

I had no trouble with COVID policy outside America. But inside America, the erratic policy led me to stay away from Red States, except one trip to see the Circuit of the Americas Formula 1 race track in Texas.

For me, traveling in Red State America was the risk not worth taking. Through 2021 and 2022, the anti-vaxxers clogged hospitals. People who needed other treatments could not get care in facilities overwhelmed with idiots. 

When I first heard about the pandemic, a doctor I respect very much said the pandemic would last three years then we would start living with it. He was right. In the coming year, I expect COVID will be in the background in most of the free world. The countries ruled by tyrants, not so much.