Maison Fournaise, My Favorite Restaurant in Paris is a Victim of COVID

 

Last month when I visited Paris, I took the suburban train to Chatou to visit a restaurant that had closed in March of 2020 and never reopened.  That restaurant is Maison Fournaise. It is located on an island in the Seine northwest of Paris on a narrow island called Ile des impressionistes. There is a small impressionist art museum on the island that is still open, but Maison Fournaise closed after being in business from 1857 to 1906 as a restaurant and boat rental business, then reopened in 1990 closing again in 2020.

In its first life, Maison Fournaise drinking spot for artists who would become some of the most famous French impressionists. Pierre-Auguste Renoir painted "The Boating Party" on the porch at Maison Fournaise.  The scene became the business card and symbol of the restaurant.  

Inside the restaurant are several sketches on the walls, carefully covered in lucite.  The sketches were caricatures done by Henri Matisse.  The owner told me that Matisse drank too much and was in love with one of the bar maids. He would come to the bar, flirt with the bar maid, and drink too much.  When he drank more than he could pay for, he paid his bar tab with sketches of prominent customers.

Pierre-Auguste Renoir painted "The Boating Party" 

on the porch at Maison Fournaise. 

I first learned about the restaurant in the late 1990s from a colleague, Alain Mathurin, who showed me several restaurants where I could host business meetings and even impress French guests. Twice I rented the same porch for a business meeting. At each event one of the French guests said they had lived in Paris all their lives and never heard of Maison Fournaise.

When I visited recently the porch that was the scene of "The Boating Party" was stripped of furniture. Some volunteers are preserving the building and hoping the restaurant has a third life. 

Even on a cold, gray day in February, the area is lovely.  The next island to the south, around the bend of the Seine, is the setting for one of Guy de Maupassant's sad love stories.  

On a summer evening with a late sunset, on the porch, watching barges and pleasure boats slip silently past, there could hardly be a better place in the world for dinner.  I hope the restaurant somehow returns. It is a victim of COVID and a loss mourned by many, including me. 

Posts about traveling in France and neighboring countries in February 2022:

My favorite restaurant is a victim of COVID.

The Museum of the Great War.

The Waterloo Battlefield.

The Red Baron Memorial.

Chartres Cathedral.

High Performance Cars in a garage in Versailles.

Talking about Fathers and Careers at lunch.

Understanding Beliefs: Book 10 of 2022

 

The thesis statement of Understanding Beliefs is in the middle of page three in the first chapter: 

One of the most important things to say about beliefs is that they are (or at least should be) tentative and changeable.

From this statement, many believers and all fundamentalist believers, would disagree with Nils J. Nilsson, Kumagai Professor of Engineering (emeritus) at Stanford University.  He was a pioneer in computer science and robotics and wrote many books including The Quest for Artificial Intelligence: A History of Ideas and Achievements. Nilsson died in 2019 at the age of 86. 

Nilsson first divides beliefs into "procedural" and "declarative."  Procedural beliefs are what we know and believe by doing--riding a bicycle for example. Declarative beliefs are those we state in sentences--religious creeds, political views, etc. He then discusses whether declarative beliefs constitute knowledge. Some who do research in the field of knowledge say that beliefs are different, Nilsson says in the introduction that beliefs cannot be separated from knowledge. Then he begins the first chapter:

Our beliefs constitute a large part of our knowledge of the world. For example, I believe I exist on a planet that we call Earth and I share it with billions of other people.

He goes on to enumerate his beliefs in things such as computers and airplanes, beliefs about our culture such as democracy and the rule of law, and beliefs about the members of his family.  He describes procedural and declarative belief in more detail and explains scientific theories.  The Nilsson says,

Before we trust a belief sufficiently to act on it, we can analyze it and perhaps modify it--taking into account our own experiences, reasoning, and the opinions and criticisms of others.

Which had me smiling and thinking of religious believers, myself included, who are more likely to believe and then analyze later.  He ends the chapter saying we are like pilots flying through clouds trusting our instruments--our beliefs guide our lives when we cannot see our path.

The second chapter asks the question "What do beliefs do for us?"  The answer:

Our beliefs serve us in several ways. Some help us make predictions and select actions, some help us understand a subject in more detail, some inspire creativity, some generate emotional responses, some can even be self-fulfilling.

The rest of the chapter explains more about what beliefs do for us.  In the third chapter we get to the more murky subject, "Where do beliefs come from?" Part of Nilsson's answer: 

All of our beliefs are mental constructions. Some are consequences of other beliefs, and some are explanations built to explain existing beliefs and experiences. (Italics Nilsson's.). ... We do know that explanations can only be constructed from the materials at hand--that is, from whatever beliefs and concepts happen to be around.

Chapter four "Evaluating beliefs" looks at how we handle doubt in our beliefs and the strength of our beliefs.  His example throughout the chapter is belief in global warming or climate change.  How those who believe come to that belief and how to evaluate that belief given the new evidence every year.  He worries about those who will not evaluate their beliefs:  

On many things, our minds are made up. But they can only be made up if we never challenge them with new experiences, new information, and discussions with knowledgeable people who might hold opposite beliefs. ... Changing our minds is difficult, but it is necessary if we want to have ever-more-useful descriptions of reality.

Chapter five "In all probability" explains how we show confidence in our beliefs, or not. Most of our beliefs, fall between the extremes of "definitely true" and definitely false" and this chapter explains how to determine our confidence in a particular belief.  

Chapter six "Reality and truth" explains the boundary between reality--things that exist, and truth--statements about what actually exists.  That boundary, like an open border, gets crossed a lot. Nilsson says, In the time of Galileo "even some theologians agreed that there was a difference between reality itself and descriptions of reality." 

Nilsson uses coal as an example. Is coal black? Is the color of coal characteristic or part of the reality of coal? Which led me to think of titanium dioxide. In nature it is black sand covering beaches in around the world: in Brazil, in South Africa, and in Western Australia among others.  Titanium dioxide is black when it forms in nature. Almost a century ago, someone figured out a process for oxidizing titanium under controlled conditions that results in a molecule 2,500 Angstroms in length--half the wavelength of white light.  The result is the whitest possible white pigment.  

Chemically, black sand and white pigment are identical. But when the molecule is 2,500 Angstroms in length, our eyes see white, vivid white.  When the molecule is much bigger, it appears to be black.  Is the same substance both white and black? In this case appearance is physics not chemistry. Is the reality the chemical compound or the color? Are white and black appearance only, or reality?

Chapters seven and eight describe "The Scientific Method" and "Robot Beliefs." They are fun but for those committed to the scientific method, that chapter is a review summed up when Nilsson says, "People have a lot of beliefs that are not falsifiable, and therefore such beliefs are not scientific."  Nilsson explains the current state and limits of artificial intelligence and robot beliefs. He ends the chapter saying, "Robots do not have any "magical," nonphysical methods for obtaining information. I don't believe humans do either."

The final chapter is "Belief Traps"--getting trapped in beliefs that wouldn't survive critical evaluation. Nilsson begins the chapter:

I have stressed throughout this book that our beliefs should be subject to change. Scientists are used to having their theories replaced by better ones. Why shouldn't we regard our everyday beliefs as tentative also?

 In the next paragraph, it is clear he knows why.  He says, "Let's looks first at obstacles to belief change caused by one's lifestyle and attitudes." He then cites the isolation of technology as a cause of falling into belief traps. He then quotes a psychologist who says "People are credulous creatures who find it very easy to believe and very difficult to doubt." He ends the chapter and the book quoting John Stuart Mill: 

[the person who] has sought for objections and difficulties instead of avoiding them, has shut out no light which can be thrown upon the subject from any quarter...has a right to think his judgment better than that of any person, or any multitude, who have not gone through a similar process.

QED or Amen, as you prefer. 

Understanding Beliefs is part of The MIT Press Essential Knowledge Series, dozens of books on topics from Free Will to Nuclear Weapons and many more. I have read four and plan to read three this year.  

First nine books of 2022:

1776 by David McCullough

The Life of the Mind by Hannah Arendt

Civilization: The West and the Rest by Niall Ferguson

How to Fight Anti-Semitism by Bari Weiss

Unflattening by Nick Sousanis

Marie Curie  by Agnieszka Biskup (en francais)

The Next Civil War by Stephen Marche

Fritz Haber, Volume 1 by David Vandermeulen

The Museum of the Great War, Somme, France

At the end of my trip to Europe last month, I visited the Museum of the Great War in Somme.  The museum is in a castle near the site of the one of the most horrible battles in World War One.  

The museum displays the things each soldier carried in the armies in the battle: clothes, mess gear, ammo, weapons, cleaning supplies and much more are displayed lying flat in areas recessed into the floor.  The displays have some of the feeling of graves.  

 As a soldier, I had the same kind of equipment I had to lay out for inspection. All the soldiers in the unit lay out their gear in a very specific pattern to make it easier for the their leaders to inspect the equipment. Anything missing is glaring when forty soldiers all lay out their equipment.  

Here are some of the displays from the Great War Museum:

German soldier

French officer uniforms

German uniform items

Machine guns

Machine guns

Medical equipment

Nurse uniform

American Soldier

Just a few miles away was the Red Baron Memorial on the side of a country road.

"Scalia/Ginsburg," an Opera in One Act--So Much Fun

 

Today I went to the Gardner theater at Lancaster Country Day School, the K-12 school of two of my six kids, and saw the one-act opera "Scalia/Ginsburg." 

Since my daughters are in their 30s, I have not been to the school in a while. The new theater is really beautiful.  

I thought it would be fun to see what an opera about the friendship between the opera lovers Ruth Bader Ginsburg and Antonin Scalia would be.  The opera is a delight, both funny and reverent.  It begins with rapid borrowings from familiar songs as Scalia sings about why he is completely right in his conservative views and the liberals are wrong.

Next the Commentator (Judge of Judges) enters to the music of "Don Giovanni" suggesting a very bad end for Scalia. Ginsburg enters, declares herself Scalia's friend, and stands with Scalia in his trial. Their friendship is their defense.  We find out the entire opera is set in the moment Scalia has his fatal heart attack. Scalia is acquitted and goes to Heaven, and after a delay, Ginsburg follows.  

Derrick Wang wrote and created the opera using the words of Scalia and Ginsburg. His website has videos of past performances.  It also has links to a fully annotated libretto if you are curious about the words he used and the operas that inspired his work. 

Prisoners of Geography, Published in 2015, Relevant Right Now! Book 11 of 2022

 

Prisoners of Geography: Ten Maps That Tell You Everything You Need to Know About Global Politics  by Tim Marshall.

Sometimes a book title promises a lot more than it can deliver.  The 16-word title, Prisoners of Geography: Ten Maps That Tell You Everything You Need to Know About Global Politics  by Tim Marshall is too modest by half. Published in 2015, this book explains the Good, the Bad and the Ugly in global politics right now.   

The author, Tim Marshall, a former war correspondent for Sky News, lives in London and continues the book on his website and Facebook Page, The What and the Why. 

The ten chapters are ten maps of ten regions followed by 20-30 pages of history and current geopolitics.  The first chapter is "Russia."  The first line of the introduction is about the current President and wannabe Tsar of Russia:

"Vladimir Putin says he is a religious man, a great supporter of the Russian Orthodox church. If so, he may well go to bed each night, say his prayers, and ask God: 'Why didn't you put some mountains in Ukraine?' 

(Using this same quote, I recently wrote about bad religion that kills good people. Putin is now the Poster Boy of this sort of murder, but all the priests pandering to him will certainly share his circle of Hell.)

In the next paragraph Marshall says "As it is, Putin has no choice: he must at least attempt to control the flat lands to the west."  In the first chapter on Russia, Marshall explains the geography and history that will compel the Russian leader to get control of Ukraine.  As I write this, Putin is in the midst of a massive invasion of Ukraine with the object of taking over the free country of 44 million people.  Marshall says Moldova is also on Putin's must-conquer list, where he will use the excuse of the Russian-speaking area of Transnistria to trigger that invasion.   

When I read this chapter two weeks ago, the invasion had not yet begun, but 150,000 Russian troops surrounded the country of Ukraine to the north and east on the ground and to the south on the Black Sea and in the recently seized territory of Crimea. Marshall explains the thousand-year history of Russia that led the world to the current conflict as well as the recent history.  Putin was President during the second war in Chechnya almost twenty years ago. He reduced the Chechen capital Grozny to rubble with thermobaric bombs. They are already rumored to be in use in Ukraine.

After prescient predictions about Russia, chapter two is "China." Again, current crimes have a geopolitical imperative.  Marshall explains why the oppression of the Uighurs in northeastern China will not end until China is fully in control.  The land where the Uighurs live is critical to China's control of agriculture within the country and its domination of Tibet and Mongolia. The good news is that China has enough to do within its current borders that subjugating Taiwan is not the top of Xi's geopolitical hit list.  

The next chapter is the "United States."  After the ominous first two chapters, this one is a geographic celebration.  No question that the best place to be born and to live in the 20th and 21st Centuries is the United States.  The Russia and China chapters and every other chapter is, in part, about complex borders and tensions between bordering countries.  The United States has long, peaceful borders to the north and south and vast oceans to the east and west.  The US economy is still the strongest in the world, the climate is varied, the both coasts have lots of good harbors, and the Mississippi River is the most navigable inland waterway on the planet.  

Reading the United States chapter reminded me that the book was written before Trump and COVID-19.  Despite the plague and pandemic they brought, the United States still has the strongest economy in the world and Russia's invasion of Ukraine is even giving the US a glimmer of national unity.

"Western Europe" is the fourth chapter.  Marshall explains the geopolitical history that kept Europe in conflict every generation from the Roman Empire until 1945. The unprecedented 77 years without a land war that followed ended with the Russia's invasion of Ukraine.  But the unity in Europe that followed is a bright ray of hope.  NATO and the European Union really are united in opposing Putin.  Even to the point that Germany is re-arming and Sweden, Switzerland and Finland are ending their neutrality.  

"Africa" is the next chapter. The enormous continent of 54 countries and two billion people has few navigable rivers and is divided by deserts, mountains and jungles.  And then there are all the conflicts stemming from badly drawn colonial borders and murderous colonial policies. Geography imprisons many inhabitants of Africa in difficult circumstances. 

Swinging north and east of Africa, Marshall's next chapter is the "Middle East." If religion is part of every regional conflict, it is central to the mess that is the Middle East.  As with Africa, badly drawn borders inflame smoldering conflicts.  The Jewish state of Israel is surrounded by a dozen countries with combined populations twenty times that of Israel where children in school are taught to hate and kill Jews.  

The arid geography of most of the Middle East means there would be conflicts over water and arable land even if the states were not openly hostile.  The region was and is the site of several recent and current wars.  Geography made Iraq easy to invade, and it makes Afghanistan impossible to conquer. The American withdrawal last year follows the Russian defeat in 1989 and British defeats in the 1840s and 1880s.  Geography keeps Iran isolated and relatively safe from attack and make Lebanon a terrorist playground. 

"India and Pakistan" are locked in permanent conflict that limits the ability of both countries to grow and prosper.  While geography keeps India safely separate from invasion by China, the border with Pakistan is the scene of endless disputes. Marshall describes the complexity of Pakistan's relationship with neighboring Afghanistan and why it is mired in America's war with the Taliban.  At the writing of the book, NATO had left Afghanistan and America had a small force there.  A new phase of the border war began in August with America's withdrawal from Afghanistan. 

"Korea and Japan" are a chapter to themselves. As with India and Pakistan, the two countries have a centuries long history of conflict. Some of the worst of that conflict was the Japanese occupation of Korea during World War II.  Sadly, that was followed by the Korean War in 1950. Japan emerged from the war as a leading world economy and a unified nation. Korea is divided into the prosperous south and the most oppressive dictatorship in the world in the north.  The border area is among the most tense in the world.  

The ninth chapter is Latin America, from the Rio Grande Valley to Tierra del Fuego. So many aspects of geography put Latin America at a great disadvantage compared to North America.  There is bonanza of harbors in the north compared with cliffs and straight, narrow coastal areas. Africa has the same plight, thousands of miles of coast useless for shipping.  Aside from the Rio del Plata, the rivers are not navigable.  The Andes are the longest mountain chain and a barrier to all trade between the Pacific Coast and the rest of the continent. 

The final chapter is the "Arctic." It is a full circle back to Russia.  Whether he discusses trade routes, oil and gas drilling, mining, or relations among the countries bordering the arctic region, Russia is acting in bad faith and cheating on agreements.  As  the polar ice diminishes, countries around the region will have more opportunities for trade and business, and more points of conflict with Russia.  

The Conclusion is much sunnier than the book itself. Marshall sees reasons for hope.  Possibly because the book was written before the first land war in Europe in 77 years, or the plagues of Trump and COVID. In any case, the book is a fascinating look at our world as it was, is, and will be.  The real world written in the reality of land, sea and air.   

First ten books of 2022:

Understanding Beliefs by Nils Nilsson

1776 by David McCullough

The Life of the Mind by Hannah Arendt

Civilization: The West and the Rest by Niall Ferguson

How to Fight Anti-Semitism by Bari Weiss

Unflattening by Nick Sousanis

Marie Curie  by Agnieszka Biskup (en francais)

The Next Civil War by Stephen Marche

Fritz Haber, Volume 1 by David Vandermeulen

Bad Religion Kills Good People

The book "Prisoners of Geography" by Tim Marshall begins, "Vladimir Putin says he is a religious man, a great supporter of the Russian Orthodox Church."  

Vladimir Putin with Orthodox Christian Priests

And yet, Putin, a self-declared Christian has just invaded a neighboring country.  Rather than turn the other cheek, Putin is killing and maiming his neighbors. 

But Putin is certainly not alone when it comes hating and killing for Jesus.  Ever since the Church took secular power in the late 400s AD, killing and conquering in the name of the Prince of Peace has stained every century for the past millennia. It's worth noting for those who rationalize armed Christianity, Jesus was a penniless Jew who told his followers not to love or even care about this world, even to hate their father and mother and pursue the Kingdom of God.  

The worst of murderous Christianity in America was certainly when eleven states rebelled with the express purpose of keeping men and women in chains for life.  Sometimes the slavers even told those they oppressed about Jesus: as strong a declaration as could ever be made that their victims deserved love and were handed hate.   

A victim of the Russian invasion of Ukraine.

Every organized patriarchal religion with power uses that power to advance its own beliefs.  For some religions, killing heretics, invading neighbors and other expressions of secular power can be reconciled with the traditions of the faith.  Jews can defend Israel.  Muslims have a mandate to create a caliphate. 

I have read every word of the New Testament in several translations and a lot of it in the Greek in which it was written.  There is no way to twist the words of Jesus into an invasion or a Crusade.  A Buddhist government has the same flat contradiction. I have read a lot about the Buddha and his beliefs and life. No one created a Buddhist army reading Buddha.

Every day the world hears about how the "Christian" Vladimir Putin bombs, blasts and murders the mostly Christian people of Ukraine.  Right now, the bad religion of Vladimir Putin, his twisted version of Christianity, is killing innocent people in Ukraine.  

Flying with No ID

 

Today my son Nigel was flying to the east coast and had an ID that said "Not for use as Federal Identification." I had not gotten him a RealID.  I had not gotten one for myself either. I was going to get one in 2020, then COVID put it out of my mind. 

I was worried he would not be able to board the plane.  It turns out it is possible to board a plane without ID. People lose their wallets, passports and other necessary ID and still fly.  

My daughter Lisa said it would be Okay.  And it was. Nigel's ID scanned and he boarded the plane.  Lisa assured me that if he had no ID he would have been questioned, but would still have boarded.  She said, "I have the kind of friends who lose their ID. Trust me."

Then I realized that in the fifty years from my first flight to basic training January 31, 1972, to now I have always had whatever was the proper ID.  Passport, drivers license, military ID.  

It's nice to know if I forget, lose, or otherwise end up without and ID, I can still get home.  Nigel and I will be visiting the DMV next week to get RealIDs, just in case.