Since 2017, I have visited sixteen different Nazi death camps in Germany, Poland, Czechia and France. A few of them twice. I have also visited Holocaust memorials including Yad Vashem and the Deportation Memorial in Paris on the same island as Notre Dame Cathedral. Since 1977, I have read all the works of C.S. Lewis, many of them several times. When I visited death camps, it is with a mind very much formed by Lewis’s view of the world. Lewis did not write about the camps or the Holocaust, but he has given me the ability to tour the camps and learn the details of the torture and murder committed in these places and maintain my sanity.
The three books in particular are in the back of my mind if not in conscious thought when I visit Nazi death camps. They are The Four Loves, The Great Divorce, and The Screwtape Letters. The first death camp I visited was Auschwitz-Birkenau. In 2017, I rode a bicycle to the city of Oswiecim from Belgrade the continued on to Lviv, Ukraine. I learned from reading Bloodlands by Timothy Snyder that Auschwitz was the center of industrial murder of Jews. Lviv was the place where the Nazis did almost nothing. Residents of the city raped, robbed and murdered all the Jews in the city and disposed of the bodies. My intention was to see the worst sites of the Holocaust. Then I flew to Israel and visited Yad Vashem. I returned to Europe and spent a week with my best friend. He and I were roommates in Wiesbaden, West Germany, in the Cold War US military in the late 1970s. I left the Army and went to college. Sgt Cliff Almes upon discharge joined the land of Kanaan Lutheran monastery in Darmstadt and became Bruder Timotheus.
In the years since my first visits in 2017, Cliff and I visited death camps together. It was wrenching to go alone, but with Cliff, we could discuss what we saw afterwards. In The Four Loves Lewis says the posture of friendship is side-by-side, sharing the same journey. Cliff and I went to a dozen death camps together and also spent a week in Israel. Lewis says facing a hard task together is much better than facing it alone. (He also says shirking is best done with companions.) On our most recent journey Cliff and I were joined by a mutual friend who was deployed to Poland and got a four-day pass to join us. I taught ESL with Emily a decade ago in Lancaster. She visited Kanaan in 2019. In 2020 she joined the Army and became a combat medic. She was running a medic team in Poland. The three of us went to the Sobibor, Treblinka, Chelmno and Majdanek death camps. A pair of friends can always be joined by another.
Every death camp different. Many people asked me why go to so many death camps? Because each death camp is unique. While the ultimate goal was death to the Jewish people and all deemed unfit to live by the Nazis, each camp was run differently. In Auschwitz-Birkenau more than a million Jews from all over Europe were murdered: gassed or worked to death. It was also a huge slave labor camp. Some inmates lived more than a year and survived their terrible confinement. Treblinka, by contrast, was death machine. Trains ran back and forth from Warsaw to Treblinka. Those on the train were murdered on arrival, and another train rolled in. More than 800,000 were murdered in just two years. Another contrast in these camps: Treblinka was hidden from view in a remote forest. Auschwitz is right in the city of Oswiecim. One of the strangest things about visiting Auschwitz is hearing the church bells. The Catholic Church is adjacent to the camp.
The camps were all run by human beings. As I see the barracks, the gas chambers, the cremation ovens, the kitchens, the latrines, the guard towers, the work rooms, I see places that were run by men and women who had eternal souls. The people who ran the camps were not another species of evil beings, they were no different from us in substance, just different in the way they chose to live their lives. I am aware that choice is limited in a totalitarian regime, but there was resistance. German police were mobilized in thousands to murder Jews with gunshots and shove them into mass graves. Some few refused. They were allowed other duties. Lewis made clear there are no ordinary persons. We are all eternal. Including murderers of innocents. Someday they will join the queue for the tour bus. If they board they will travel to the edge of Heaven and a victim of their crimes will make the long journey to offer them forgiveness. How many will heed that offer?
Which brings me to the bespeckled embodiment of Nazi evil. A failed Austrian salesman with a talent for logistics who joined the Nazi Party in Germany soon after Adolph Hitler took power because he needed a job. Adolph Eichmann became a Nazi official and by 1935 was organizing the deportation of Jews from the Reich. In an irony of obeying orders, Eichmann saved the lives of thousands of Jews by deporting them. Many Jews wanted to leave but could not navigate the approvals necessary. Eichmann organized a large arena where all the agencies were under one roof, completing all the paperwork in a day or two. The Jews he processed lost all their property but escaped with their lives.
When the Nazis invaded Poland, Eichmann was on hold for two years from late 1939 until early 1942 when the Final Solution became Nazi policy. The same Eichmann who got Jews out of the Reich used his same logistic skill to round up Jews and send them to death camps. Eichmann took three million Jews from their homes and sent them to death camps. He was efficient and thoughtless. Screwtape, the mid-level bureaucrat in the lowerarchy of Hell does what his Father Below orders. As I visit camps, I look at the rail sidings, the offices, the barracks, and feel the presence of clerks doing their jobs. Reading and rereading The Screwtape Letters I was amused by the wit that assembled these advice letters to Wormwood. But the evil hovers there. Eichmann was a small and vain man. When he did his job well he bragged and expected praise. He would fit perfectly within Screwtape’s world.
My friends Bruder Timotheus and Sergeant Emily Burgett are with me at Belsen, Treblinka, Buchenwald and all the other camps helping me to navigate the near-infinite evil of these camps. And C.S. Lewis is there also.








