Wednesday, February 22, 2023

Reporting from the Front Lines of the War in Ukraine: Kristaps Andrejsons

Kristaps Andrejsons, Host and Creator of The Easter Border podcast

Since 2017 I have been listening to a podcast from Latvia, The Eastern Border. I began listening because I had been reading Russian novels for several years and learning Russian. The podcast alternated between current Russian politics and Soviet history--and how they seemed to be coming together.

In 2019 I was in the Riga for a few days. I contacted Kristaps and visited him in his hometown of Ludza, the easternmost town in the European Union in continental Europe. (Reunion Island is in the EU and further east.) Ludza is just a few miles from the Russian border, so Eastern Border is a good name for the podcast. I wrote about the 2019 visit here

Then on 24 February 2022, the format of the Eastern Border podcast changed. In the past twelve months Kristaps has traveled to Poland and Ukraine many times. He went from history podcaster to war reporter. I listened to Ukraine War Episode 136 just tow days ago.  

Kristaps has been to Kyiv, Kherson and within a few kilometers of the front line of the war.  Last week he was talking to Russian journalists who fled their country when the war started and are in Latvia.  He has talked with combat troops, journalists and leaders in Ukraine and with refugees in countries throughout Eastern Europe.




He knows soldiers from many countries, including the US, who have volunteered to fight in Ukraine. He told me about a guy who had served in Iraq and Afghanistan and came to Ukraine to fight in a war where the good side and evil side were very clear--and he is on the good side. 

Although his plans are always guarded, he may be returning to Ukraine soon with a major German publication as a translator, guide, and expert on the war.  

If you want a ground-level view of the war, Kristaps is a great reporter.  He also has deep knowledge of Russia and sources within Russia so he can decode and interpret Russian propaganda.  



 







Catching Up with a Great Science Writer and Bicyclist I Haven't Seen For More Than 15 Years.

 

Katharine Sanderson and I on the 
north side of the Millennium Bridge

In 2004 Katharine Sanderson flew from the offices of "Chemistry World" magazine in Cambridge, UK, to Philadelphia to write about a collection of historic science books. The museum and library I worked for the time, Science History Institute, had just acquired a collection of 6,000 science books dating back almost to the invention of printing.  The article is here.

In February of the following year, I saw Katharine again and the annual meeting of the American Association for the Advancement of Science (AAAS).  At the meeting, which was in St. Louis that year, Katharine introduced me to Marc Abrahams, the creator and impresario of the Ig Nobel Prize ceremony held the second Thursday of September in Sanders Theater on the campus of Harvard University--in the other Cambridge. I eventually became a volunteer at the Ig Nobel Prize ceremony.

Marc Abrahams at the Ig Nobel Prize ceremony, assisted by a human flashlight

In 2005 Katharine was back to Science History Institute to write about the 40th Anniversary Moore's Law.  Gordon Moore is a co-founder of Intel Corporation and known the law of increasing complexity of microprocessor chips that bears his name. But he considers himself a chemist and held the ceremony to celebrate Moore's Law at the Science History Institute, not in Silicon Valley.

Katharine and I met at another meeting a couple of years later. During that visit we ran to Camden, New Jersey, and back across the Ben Franklin Bridge.  We have kept in touch. I followed her writing at "Chemistry World" and later at "Nature" magazine.

A decade ago she started a family and became a more avid bicyclist.  She also moved to one of the top places for the cycling in the world: the Pyrenees mountains in southwestern France. 

Now she lives in Cornwall on the southwest coast of England. A good place for riding, but not the Pyrenees! We finally got together for a long walk and coffee after more than a decade and a half.  We also walked along the Thames with Katharine's friend Elaine who lives in the Pyrenees. Her husband Peter Cossins wrote "A Cyclist's Guide to the Pyrenees." Now we have a tentative plan that if I make one last ride of the Tour de France climbs, I will ride the Pyrenees instead of the Alps and Katharine will visit and ride the big climbs.

Since she is about half my age, I will watch her disappear into the clouds.

Philosophy Discussions on the Way to NYC Shopping


From 2002 until the pandemic, several of my kids and I would go to New York the day after Christmas to shop along Broadway. Usually we drove to either Trenton or Secaucus from Lancaster, parked the car, and took New Jersey Transit trains to NYC.  

We would talk about almost anything on the drives up and back. On one of the drives when my younger daughter Lisa was in grad school, so 2013 or after, it was just Nigel, Lisa and I in the car. Nigel fell asleep in the back seat. 

Lisa and I started what became a two-hour plus discussion of free will--does it it exist? 

At the time, Lisa had come to believe in Determinism. That school of thought says free will is an illusion. We act as nature and nurture has programmed us. The appearance of free will can always be explained by brain activity and environment.  

I believe that all people have free will, but most people choose to use it rarely or never. Many wish they did not have free will and want someone else to make the tough decisions in their lives.  

Last week, I was in the English section of a Swiss bookstore and saw Sam Harris' book "Free Will." I meant to read this after Lisa and I discussed Determinism. (Was the decade delay a free will choice on my part, or because I had a job and kids living at home at the time, simply something I forgot--determined by my environment?)

Even though it is a decade later and Lisa has a different view of free will now, I  decided to buy the book and read it on the flight from Geneva to Riga, Latvia.   The book is well written and I am unconvinced. Another book titled "Free Will" takes the position that we have free will but use it rarely. That is my position. I wrote about that book here. It's very good on parsing Fate, Chance, Free Will and Determinism. 


I may choose to re-read Mark Balguer's book "Free Will" later this year. I recommend it to anyone interested in the subject.  As for Sam Harris' book on the same topic, I will leave it in an airport or train station for someone else. It is very well written. And that makes me reject the premise all the more. 

Every sentence I write involves choosing the right words in the right order. Sometimes I surprise myself with a choice of words that seems perfect for expressing and idea. Sometimes I re-read something I wrote and think I should never attempt to write again. Most of writing is determined by decades of experience and training and intuition. But once in a while I have to choose among very different possibilities and in that moment, I have Free Will.

Tuesday, February 21, 2023

Zanis Lipke Memorial, Riga, Latvia: Honoring a Man Who Hid Jews from the Nazis


Zanis Lipke during World War II

Since 2017, I have visited ten death camps and many Holocaust memorials across Europe and in Israel. Before those visits I read three books by Timothy Snyder on the Holocaust and tyranny.  One of those books, "Black Earth: The Holocaust as History and Warning" came back to me today on a visit to the Zanis Lipke Memorial.  

Snyder says the Holocaust was the worst, by number of killed of the entire population, in the countries conquered by both the Soviets and the Nazis.  Of the approximately 70,000 Jews who lived in Latvia in the summer of 1941, fewer than a thousand survived the war. Just 200 Jews survived the war in Latvia, the rest were concentration camp survivors. One-fifth of those were the Jews who were hidden in several different places by Zanis Lipke.  

Zanis Lipke Memorial, completed in 2014. Designed by architect Zaiga Gaile to have the appearance of an (inverted) ark--a refuge from Nazi murder.

Lipke witnessed the terrible treatment of the Jews in Riga beginning on 1 July 1941 when the Nazis entered the city. The Nazis conquered and completely occupied Latvia by 8 July 1941.  Later in the year, he decided he must rescue Jews. He got a job in a Luftwaffe warehouse in Riga and used his position to smuggle Jews out of the ghetto. 

According to Museum Researcher and Curator of Pedagogical Programs Maija Meiere-Osa, who gave me a tour of the Memorial, Lipke created a network of hiding places for small groups of Jews around the city. 

Maija Meiere-Ost, Museum Researcher and 
Curator of Pedagogical Programs, Zanis Lipke Memorial

Meiere-Osa said Lipke was the only one who knew where all the Jews were hidden and who was caring for them in hiding. Lipke was a veteran of the Latvian Army and had done some smuggling while working on the shipping docks in Riga, so he was able to create an intricate plan and keep it secret.

"He was the spider," she said. "Only he knew the entire extent of the web he created."

The entrance to the museum. The entire museum is dark and close 
and has the feeling of an underground shelter.

By the winter, hiding Jews in houses became more difficult, so Lipke began digging a bunker under a shed on his property.  Despite the frozen ground, they completed the underground shelter. His wife Johanna cared for eight Jews in that bunker. 

Many people who hid Jews offered shelter for weeks, some for more than a year, but Lipke and his wife agreed they would shelter the Jews for a decade if needed. 

Zanis Lipke was honored by Yad Vashem as Righteous Among the Nations on 28 June 1966. The Soviet government would not allow Lipke to travel to Jerusalem, but the wily smuggler was able to get to Australia to visit his son several years later and was himself smuggled into Israel to visit Yad Vashem and was able to visit in 1977.

The Soviet government decided they could live with the award, redefining it as an award for "saving Soviet citizens from fascist enemies." 





Monday, February 20, 2023

From Atlantic Magazine--The latest reporting by Anne Applebaum on Murder, Torture and Rape by Russians in Ukraine.


‘THEY DIDN’T UNDERSTAND ANYTHING, BUT JUST SPOILED PEOPLE’S LIVES’ 
How Russian invaders unleashed violence on small-town residents 
By Anne Applebaum and Nataliya Gumenyuk 
FEBRUARY 14, 2023 SHARE 

This article is based on interviews and research by the Reckoning Project, a multinational group of journalists and researchers collecting evidence of war crimes in Ukraine. 

On the night of february 24, 2022, the sound of missiles jolted Viktor Marunyak awake. He saw flashes in the sky and billowing black smoke; then he got dressed and went to work. Marunyak is the mayor of Stara Zburjivka, a village just across the Dnipro River from Kherson, and he headed immediately to an emergency meeting with leaders of other nearby villages to discuss their options. They quickly realized that they were already too late to connect with the Ukrainian army. Their region was cut off. They were occupied. 

Occupied. Marunyak had been expecting the war to break out, but he had no sense of what a Russian occupation of his village might mean. Like his colleagues, Marunyak is an elected official—genuinely elected, since 2006, under Ukrainian laws giving real power to local governments, not appointed following a falsified plebiscite, as a similar official might have been in the Soviet era or might be in modern Russia. That meant that when the occupation began, he felt an enormous responsibility to stay in Stara Zburjivka and help his constituents cope with a cascade of emergencies. “Already, within a few days, there were families lacking food,” he recalls. “There was no bread or flour, so I was trying to buy grain from the farmers … Many residents began contributing the food they could share, and so we created a fund, providing assistance on demand.” 

Similar plans were made to locate and distribute medications. Because the Ukrainian police had ceased to function, citizens formed nighttime security patrols staffed with local volunteers. Marunyak prepared to negotiate with whoever the Russians sent to Stara Zburjivka. “I told people not to be afraid, saying, when the Russians would come, I’ll be the first to talk to them.” He was. And he paid a horrific price for it. The Russian soldiers who arrived in Kherson—like the Russian soldiers who occupied Bucha and Irpin, the Kharkiv region, Zaporizhzhya, or anywhere else in Ukraine—were not prepared to meet people like Marunyak. To the extent that the invaders had any understanding of where they were and what they were meant to be doing (some, initially, had none), they believed that they were entering Russian territory ruled by an insecure and unpopular Ukrainian elite. Their actions suggested that their immediate goal was to decapitate that elite: arrest them, deport them, kill them. They did not expect this to be difficult. 

Their theory of occupation was not new. Soviet soldiers entering the territory of eastern Poland or the Baltic states during World War II also arrived with lists of the types of people they wanted to arrest. In May 1941, Stalin himself provided such a list for occupied Poland. To the Soviet dictator, anyone linked to the Polish state—police, army officers, leaders of political parties, civil servants, their families—was a “counter-revolutionary,” a “kulak,” a “bourgeois,” or, to put it more simply, an enemy to be eliminated. Russia made similar lists before invading Ukraine a year ago, some of which have become known. Ukraine’s president, prime minister, and other leaders featured on them, as did well-known journalists and activists. But Russian soldiers were not prepared to encounter widespread resistance, and they certainly did not expect to find loyal, conscientious, popularly elected small-town and village mayors. Perhaps that explains why Marunyak, age 60, was punished with such horrific cruelty after the Russians arrested him on March 21. Along with a few other local men, the Stara Zburjivka mayor was kept blindfolded and handcuffed for three days. Russian soldiers beat him. They gave him nothing to eat and little to drink. 

One time he was stripped naked and forced to stay in the cold for several hours. A gun was held to his head, and he was threatened with drowning. He was told that his wife and daughters would also be captured. Once, he said, the soldiers choked him until he lost consciousness. They kept demanding to know where he kept his weapons. Because Marunyak fit into no category that the Russians could recognize—perhaps even because his local patriotism and his civic-mindedness seemed strange to them—they decided he must be a secret member of a Ukrainian “sabotage group.” He was not. He had no weapons and no military skills. 

Days into his detention, Marunyak was briefly able to see his wife, Kateryna Ohar, before he was transferred to Kherson. The soldiers told Ohar she would not see her husband for 20 years. He was then sent right into another torture chamber, where a different set of Russian soldiers tied wires to his thumbs. In this form of torture, wires are connected to a victim’s fingers, toes, or sometimes genitals. Electric shocks are then delivered using the battery of a field telephone—according to one witness, soldiers described it as “making a call to Putin.” The practice of electrocuting prisoners was used during the Soviet invasion of Afghanistan and in Russia’s Chechen wars, and it is now in use again throughout occupied Ukraine. But even when Marunyak was tortured and interrogated, he noticed that his captors never wrote anything down. Their questioning was sloppy; he could not work out what they actually wanted to learn. Possibly nothing. Eventually, after days of captivity with next to no food, he was freed, with nine broken ribs and pneumonia. 

He escaped the occupied zone. Over the past 10 months, the Reckoning Project has deployed more than a dozen journalists and field researchers to record detailed testimonies of victims of and witnesses to atrocities in areas of Ukraine that are or were under Russian occupation. Lawyers and analysts then seek to verify these accounts, with the goal of providing evidence that will be admissible in future court proceedings. The organization has found that Marunyak’s experience was not unusual. Oleh Yakhniyenko, the mayor of Mylove, another village in the Kherson region, was detained twice. Olena Peleshok, the mayor of Zeleny Pod, was imprisoned for more than two months. Mykhailo Burak, the mayor of Bekhtery village, was detained and tortured. In the formerly occupied territory of Kharkiv alone, police investigators have evidence of 25 torture chambers. 

The Ukrainian government believes that mayors, deputy mayors, and other local leaders from a majority of the Kherson region’s 49 municipalities were arrested or kidnapped. Some have simply disappeared. Many of their stories share not only gruesome details but also an atmosphere of unreality. Ukrainian captives were told that the Ukrainian state had discriminated against them for speaking Russian; now they were “free,” the invaders insisted. But when Russian-speaking mayors and other elected officials flatly explained that no one in Ukraine had harmed them for using their native language, or that Russian was widely spoken in the region, the soldiers didn’t have any response. Dmytro Vasyliev, the secretary of the city council of occupied Nova Kakhovka, recalled that his Russian was more fluent and more grammatical than the Russian of the soldier interrogating him. 

The soldier was a Kalmyk, one of Russia’s minority groups; Vasyliev had been born in Moscow. He considered himself a Ukrainian of ethnic Russian extraction, which confused them: “They couldn’t comprehend why I, Russian by ethnic origin, did not want to cooperate with them,” Vasyliev recalled. “I said, ‘How can I look into the eyes of my son, my colleagues, if I become a traitor?’ They just didn’t get it.” Since his interview with the Reckoning Project, Vasyliev has died. But even as they inflicted pain on the most civic-minded Ukrainians, even as they assaulted local leaders, Russian soldiers seemed not to know how to replace them. 

Unlike their Soviet Communist forebears, who could at least name the ideology that had driven them into Poland, or Estonia, or Romania, the modern Russian army seems to have no coherent theory of government or administration, no concrete plans to run the region, even no clear idea of the meaning of Russkiy mir, the “Russian world” that some of President Vladimir Putin’s ideologues extol. Russian forces do find collaborators to replace elected officials, but many appear to be completely random, unqualified people, with no discernible ideology or previous links to Russia. 

In some places the invaders have displayed Soviet symbols or flags, perhaps hoping that these older ideas will create some sympathy for Russia among the conquered Ukrainians. But mostly they’ve offered nothing: no explanation, no improvements to life, not even a competent administration. They do immense damage, but they don’t seem to know why. The Reckoning Project found that Russian occupation forces have targeted Ukrainian local officials for interrogation and torture.  

According to data from the Ukrainian government, 93 local-government officials had been detained by Russian forces as of late January; 75 have since been released, and 18 remain in detention. Three local-government officials have been killed, including Sukhenko. 

After the mayors, town councilors, and other elected officials, the Ukrainians who disturb the occupiers most are volunteers: people who run charities, people who run civic organizations, people who spontaneously rush to help others. Perhaps they seem suspicious to Russian officials because their own country crushes spontaneity, independent associations, and grassroots movements. The Reckoning Project interviewed a man from Skadovsk, a part of Kherson province still under Russian control, whom we will call Volunteer A. (He requested anonymity because he fears for his family’s safety.) He had been a member of one of the neighborhood-watch groups that stepped in to replace the police, and had worked at a humanitarian-aid distribution center. After his father was arrested in April 2022, a few weeks into the occupation, Volunteer A went to find him—and was detained as well. 

During the subsequent interrogation, Volunteer A was asked about other local activists and about his connection to the Ukrainian security services (none) and the CIA (even less), as well as (ludicrously) George Soros’s Open Society Foundations. Like the Soviet officials who treated Boy Scout troops in occupied central Europe like members of a conspiracy, the Russians seemed incredulous that he was just a local volunteer, working with other local volunteers; their questions made it seem as if they had never heard of such a thing. He recalled being beaten simultaneously by four different men, struck by a baseball bat, tormented with electric shocks, and hit with a hammer in an effort to get him to admit he was part of a larger conspiracy. At least one of his ribs was broken. 

After the interrogation, he was told to make a video confession and to sign a statement declaring that he would not spread “fake news” about the Russian occupation. After a subsequent detention, he too escaped the region. Volunteer B, as we’ll call him (he also fears for his family), had a similar experience. Before Russian forces detained him, he had been running a makeshift pharmacy that collected medical-supply donations. He was interrogated and beaten and, like Volunteer A, asked repeatedly about the true purpose of his charitable work. Who was organizing it? Again, the Russian soldiers seemed unable to believe that no secret group was behind it, that ordinary people were spontaneously contributing to this common project, that information about it simply spread by word of mouth, on social media and on the radio, and not as the result of some dark plot. 

He was asked to jot down a description of how his group worked: “The way it worked,” he recalled writing, “was that people brought what they had and got what they needed. Provided that we have it.” The Russians kept pressing for more details of the nonexistent conspiracy. Then they confiscated the painkillers he had accumulated, which had been destined for cancer patients. This man, who was also forced to leave his region, now believes that the interrogators’ real problem was that they feared volunteers were outside their control: “It really pisses [the Russians] off, annoys them,” he said, that anyone can be independent of the state and of the political system—any political system. This helps explain why the list of arrested and tortured volunteers is so long, and why their testimonies are so similar across the various zones of occupation. 

Ruslan Mashkov, a Ukrainian Red Cross volunteer, was detained by Russian soldiers north of Kyiv in March and interrogated. A woman in the Kherson region who had helped sort humanitarian-aid packages told an interviewer that she had been arrested, given electrical shocks, robbed of her money, and beaten. (She asked not to be identified by name.) Nakhmet Ismailov, another Kherson resident who had organized charity concerts and benefits before the war, was also tortured with electric shocks. Anyone who conducts any independent activity—anyone who engages with civil society or who might be described as a social entrepreneur—is at risk in an occupation zone run by men who may have never encountered a genuine charity or a genuine volunteer organization before at all.  

Snapshots by the Reckoning Project of suspected torture chambers and detention centers. The images in the top row were taken in the Kherson region; the images in the bottom row were taken in Izyum, near Kharkiv, and Yahidne, near Chernihiv. (Photographs courtesy of the Reckoning Project) The invaders’ nihilism is particularly notable in their incoherent approach to the Ukrainian educational system. In theory, schools and universities are the focus of careful Russian thought and planning, just as they were once the focus of careful Soviet thought and planning. In the aftermath of the Second World War, the Red Army, in an utterly devastated occupied East Germany, took time away from food provision and road reconstruction to issue an edict banning private kindergartens and to set up curriculum-training sessions for new preschool teachers. 

In the spring of 2022, Russian occupiers did signal their interest in transforming Ukrainian schools. In Melitopol, which is still occupied, the Russian military abducted a handful of school principals as well as the head of the local department of education, although later the principals were released. In Kakhovka, Viktor Pendalchuk, the director of School No. 1, was detained and interrogated for two weeks before escaping to Ukrainian-held territory. Still, a large number of schools in occupied areas at first remained closed, or else operated online, as they had done during the early phases of the coronavirus pandemic. The occupiers pressured some educators to return. In one case investigated by the Reckoning Project, witnesses described a geography, math, and computer-science teacher—we are withholding his name because his village in the Kherson region is still occupied—whose home was visited by Russian soldiers in late June; they handcuffed his 18-year-old son, perhaps because he planned to go to university to study Ukrainian history. 

They put a bag over the teen’s head and then dragged him away. The teacher received a message, via an interlocutor, telling him that his son was alive, was being fed, and would be returned home if the teacher returned to his job. The teacher complied. The son did come back, and described being interrogated, threatened at gunpoint, and tortured with electric shocks. Read: Scenes from Ukrainian summer camp By autumn, the occupiers had intensified their efforts to Russify the schools, causing a lot of distress among Ukrainian teachers who feared being accused of collaboration by their own compatriots if they showed up at work. But the process remained haphazard, differing from place to place. In at least one town in the Zaporizhzhya region, the Reckoning Project believes, all Ukrainian-language books were removed from schools, including children’s books; elsewhere, only upper-level Ukrainian books, on law and history, were removed. 

In one Zaporizhzhyan village, still under occupation, soldiers have forced schools to open by threatening to take children from their parents if they do not show up. Elsewhere, low attendance has been tolerated. Residents of some areas have said that the occupiers imposed a Russian-language curriculum, but many of the lessons were poorly designed. In one school district, just four textbooks were assigned—on the Russian language, Russian history, math, and natural science—and all others were discarded. Asked what she had been doing in school during the time Kherson was occupied, a 14-year-old named Oleksandra recalled that students spent their time looking at their phones. 

Higher education suffers from the same erratic policies. Russian soldiers physically occupied Kherson State University, Kherson State Maritime Academy, and Kherson State Agrarian and Economic University, but managed to hold only a small number of classes. In June, while the city was still occupied, the Russians announced that Dmytro Kruhly, one of the teachers at the Kherson State Maritime Academy, would become rector. Everyone else was fired. Kruhly, who previously taught classes about “global maritime distress and safety systems,” announced that the new task of the university was to build a shipyard, but few steps were taken in that direction. After the liberation of Kherson, Kruhly disappeared from the city, probably retreating with the Russians. 

Substantial evidence suggests that Moscow had bigger plans for Ukrainian schools but the soldiers on the ground could not implement them. In Vovchansk, a small frontline town in the Kharkiv region, freed in September after six months of occupation, the Reckoning Project obtained a copy of a five-year education plan for schools in the city. The document runs to 140 pages of bureaucratic language, which appears to have been mostly copied and pasted from the educational plans given to schools in Russia, as if no special thought went into the needs of schools in newly occupied territories. It calls, for example, for an annual “Day of Solidarity in the Fight Against Terrorism” to commemorate the infamous 2004 attack on a school in Beslan, in Russia’s North Ossetia region; for lessons about the Nazi blockade of Leningrad in World War II; and for a course on the “basics of the spiritual-moral culture of the peoples of Russia.” 

The entire document contains only two lines about Vovchansk itself—about visits to the town’s “institutions of culture” and production sites. Regardless of Moscow’s intentions, the Russians actually carrying out the occupation didn’t really seem to care what happened to the schools. There was no policy equivalent to the systematic Soviet imposition of Marxist language and history on central Europe in the 1940s, not even an equivalent to the imposition of a pro-Russian regime in Chechnya during the second Chechen War. In one occupied town in the Zaporizhzhya region, teachers were ordered to organize celebrations of May 9—the day Russia marks the anniversary of the Allied victory over Nazi Germany. But the occupying authorities didn’t seem to mind whether attendance was high, or whether anyone learned anything about the war, or whether the celebrations were even real. 

“A couple of kids will be enough,” they were told. The ritual was for show. The point was to tell Moscow that it had happened, not to teach any real lessons about World War II. In truth, each region of Ukraine does have its own history and traditions, and some of them are eerily relevant. In 1787, four years after Russia defeated the Ottoman empire and annexed the territory of what is now southern Ukraine and Crimea, the Russian empress Catherine the Great visited the region. The trip was organized by Grigory Potemkin, who was once her lover and remained her favorite minister, and it is from this journey that we have inherited the expression Potemkin village. 

According to the legend, Potemkin built facades along Catherine’s route and populated them with actors in costumes, pulling them down at the end of every day and putting them up again at the next village, so that the czarina would see only happy peasants and prosperous homes. Read: A giant, fake city in the middle of the desert Historians doubt that this elaborate piece of theater really happened, but Potemkin’s connection to the region was real: He was buried in a crypt in Kherson, and before the Russians evacuated the city they removed his bones. And the Potemkin-village legend persists because it reflects a phenomenon we recognize: the courtier who creates a false reality to please the distant monarch. 

For Ukrainians who have lived under Russian occupation, the Potemkin story helps explain what they have experienced. Marunyak, the mayor of Stara Zburjivka, put it like this: “I am following their activities. They are all done for a camera shot in Russia. Even people who live in the occupation don’t believe it is for real. It’s like a huge Potemkin village. It can’t function. They try to glue it together, but it doesn’t work.” The Potemkin story might also begin to explain the horrific violence that ordinary Russians have inflicted on ordinary Ukrainians. Over and over again, victims told the Reckoning Project that this extreme behavior came from nowhere. There was no provocation. Nothing that Ukrainians have done to Russians either in the distant past or in recent memory could explain the beatings, the electric shocks, the detention centers, the torture chambers in garages and basements, the utter disregard for Ukrainian life. 

Only the Russians’ frustration with their own incapacity—their inability to make the Ukrainians obey them; indeed, their inability to understand Ukraine at all—might offer a clue. They were told to transform the schools, but they do not know how. They were told to find secret Ukrainian organizations, but instead they found small-town mayors and local volunteers. On the one hand, they have to send a report back to Moscow, proving that they are in control. On the other hand, they are angry because they exercise so little control. This incomprehension also fits into an older tradition. 

The Ukrainian writer Volodymyr Vynnychenko wrote a letter in 1928 to the Russian writer Maxim Gorky, who had dismissed the Ukrainian language as a mere dialect. Ukraine, Vynnychenko told him, was real, whether or not Gorky wanted it to be real. “You can think that the Dnipro River flows into the Moscow River,” he said. But “the Dnipro will not flow into the Moscow River” just because you think so. Wishing Ukraine away will not make Ukraine go away. 

Rewriting history will not alter the historical memories of millions of people. Russia can try to alter the geography of the region, but that will not alter the geography of the region, no matter how many bodies are beaten or electric shocks are delivered. The modern Russian occupation also belongs to the equally old, equally ugly traditions of Russian imperialism and Soviet genocide. Moscow wants to obliterate Ukraine as a separate country, and Ukrainian as a distinct identity. The occupiers thought that task would be easy, because, like Putin, they assumed that the Ukrainian state and Ukrainian society are weak. But they are not. That clash between assumption and reality has also forced the occupiers to broaden their use of violence. 

Wayne Jordash, a British barrister who documents Russian war crimes in Ukraine, argued in a Reckoning Project interview that the extraordinary number of detention centers in occupied Ukraine represent the Russian army’s attempt to fulfill its original plan, which was “to capture and kill all the leaders” of Ukraine. But as the occupation dragged on, “the idea of leaders got bigger. It was originally ‘Zelensky and the government,’ and it quite quickly, inevitably, became ‘local leaders,’ which includes everyone from military to civil servants to journalists, to teachers—anybody who had a connection with the Ukrainian state.” Failure and incompetence lead to violence; violence creates more resistance; and resistance, so hard for the invaders to comprehend, creates wider, broader, ever more random destruction, pain, and suffering. 

This is the logic of genocide, and it is unfolding right now, in our time, in the occupied Ukrainian territories that have not yet been liberated, in the towns where Russian soldiers still arrest people arbitrarily on the street, in the villages where the Ukrainian state cannot yet count the torture chambers, let alone shut them down. Stara Zburjivka itself remains under occupation, although Marunyak, its devoted mayor, now lives in exile in Latvia. From there he tries to keep in touch with his former constituents, to help if he can, to advise or to listen, to keep together the threads of a society that the Russians are cruelly, haphazardly unraveling. “They didn’t understand anything,” Marunyak says now, “but just spoiled people’s lives.” They discovered a world different from the one they knew. And so they smashed it up, hit back at it, and are still trying to destroy it forever. 

Oleh Baturin, Natalia Bimbirayte, and Natalia Kurdiukova contributed reporting.  

Anne Applebaum is a staff writer at The Atlantic. 

Nataliya Gumenyuk, a Ukrainian journalist, is a founding member of the Reckoning Project and the co-founder of the Public Interest Journalism Lab.

 

Sunday, February 19, 2023

Historic Landmark Plaque Presentation at Jungfraujoch Lab

In a crowd of fellow science and history of science nerds, I am in the second row on the left.

My trip up to Jungfraujoch was to attend a ceremony making the lab a historic landmark of European chemistry. Here is the official test from the Swiss Chemical Society:

On Friday, February 17, 2023 the European Chemical Society Historical Landmark Award plaque was presented at the Jungfraujoch High Altitude Research Station, Switzerland. A delegation of international guests, including representatives from EuChemS, ambassadors and politicians from involved partner countries, scientists from across Europe and the Swiss Government joined the event on the 'Top of Europe' and not only enjoyed the historical moment during the ceremony but also the great view in bright sunshine.

The day before the official ceremony on the Jungfraujoch, the SCS in collaboration with the University of Bern organized an international symposium on the topic «Chemistry of the Atmosphere» at the Department of Chemistry, Biochemistry and Pharmaceutical Sciences of the University of Bern. The program included nine talks of renowned in international speakers. See the website (https://ehla23.scg.ch/) for more information and the abstracts of the talks.




 

Saturday, February 18, 2023

Cosmic Radiation Research in the High Alps and Bedford, Massachusetts





The trip from Bern, Switzerland, to the high altitude laboratory on Jungfraujoch is two train rides, a gondola that rises more than 1,300 meters (almost 5,000 feet) to a tunnel railway and the place called "The Top of Europe" even in my weather app: 3,571 meters/11,782 feet of altitude.


On the trip up, I talked with Erwin Fluckiger, a physicist who studied cosmic radiation and high altitude atmospheric physics at the Junfraujoch for most of his scientific career.  

As we talked, I learned that the only time he lived in another country for an extended period was one and a half years as a post-doctoral fellow.  He lived in Bedford, Massachusetts, in the early 1980s, less than 20 miles from where I grew up in Stoneham.  

Professor Emeritus Erwin Fluckiger

We made a couple of jokes about Bedford not being at a very high altitude, but he said he learned a lot while in America and liked living in the Boston area.  

We talked about retirement. He is still working on some projects he is interested in and is listed as a part of the staff on the Jungfraujoch web site.  Erwin was a director of the lab from 2000-2009 and President from 2010-2016.

Before and after his post-doc in America, Erwin spent nearly three years in the Swiss army. He was the officer in charge of a radar unit. He liked living outdoors training in Switzerland.  As we talked the trains we were riding in were winding past alpine lakes and forests between high peaks.  

One area Erwin still is involved in is cosmic and solar radiation exposure for the crews of aircraft.  In Europe everyone who flies for a living is monitored for radiation exposure. I had never heard of this and was interested to hear how it evolved. Which led to a discussion of the influence of unions on work environments. 

We talked about language. He reminded me that Switzerland has four official languages, all represented on the currency: German, French, Italian and Romanish, but "Almost everyone speaks English." 






Thursday, February 16, 2023

Helpful Guy in a Berne, Switzerland, Laundromat

 


Today in Berne, Switzerland, not too far from the river in this photo, I went to a small laundromat. I got Swiss Francs on the way and bought a sandwich and coffee so I would have change and small bills. But as is often the case with laundromats, the money requirements are very specific.

Outside waiting for his laundry to dry was a guy named Thomas who helped me with the whole process--which coins I needed and where to get them.  The washer needed five one-franc coins, the soap dispenser and dryers would take coins from 10 centimes up to five francs.  Thomas took me over to the bar next door where they gave change for the laundry.  Then he pulled his clothes from the dryer and went home. COVID is far enough from people's minds that we shook hands as he left.

Since I travel with just a backpack, I am in weekly need of a laundromat on a long trip.  Last week I used a laundromat in Paris near the Pantheon, not my favorite one, it was closed for remodeling. 

My favorite laundromat in the world is in Jerusalem where I met an Israeli tank commander who fell from a helicopter and lived to tell about it.

Last year, at a rural boat dock in Denmark, I used the laundromat and met a retired electronics technician who had traveled the world for Siemens Corporation. He nearly died during the civil war in Libya, but hates Las Vegas more than any place on earth. I also met three of four American sisters traveling together in Paris in the renewed travel in 2022.

Just as I was leaving the laundromat today, as guy with a cigarette scratchy voice asked me a question in what I thought was German. I said I only speak English. He said, much more clearly, "I am speaking English." I laughed and passed along the information from Thomas: 1 franc coins only for the washer, any coins for the soap and the dryer.  He thanked me and began pulling off several layers of clothes and putting them in the washer.  




Tuesday, February 14, 2023

Cold War Manchester Tour from Ian Sanders, Host of the Cold War Conversations History Podcast

 

Ian Sanders, host and creator of the Cold War Conversations History Podcast
pointing out Manchester World War II history. An alarm to get the attention of fire watchers stationed atop buildings in Manchester.

I visited Manchester UK recently to meet Ian Sanders in person, after knowing him for several years as the creator and host of the Cold War Conversations History Podcast. He started the podcast in 2018 as a way to preserve the stories of the people who lived through the Cold War, served in the military in the Cold War, and had stories about their part in this long simmering worldwide conflict. 

The podcast is now in its 277th episode,  about "The Most Damaging Female Spy in Us History." The podcast has had more than two million downloads in the past half decade. 

The tour began with the picture above. Many buildings in Manchester had fire watchers during World War II. In December 1940 the Nazis fire bombed Manchester to devastating effect. More than 700 people were killed in two terrible nights of fire bombing.

Ian showed me a memorial to those who lost their lives. A metal tree with all of the names inscribed in the trunk.



We visited a memorial to the World War II code-breaker and computer innovator Alan Turing. He is from the Manchester area and took his own life near the city during the Cold War.  





We had lunch in the Manchester Art Museum: haddock sandwiches with mushy peas.
Then went upstairs to see a famous painting of the Battle of Balaclava--in the Crimean War.  The painting is the aftermath of the infamous Charge of the Light Brigade in which the brave 600 who charged the Russian cannon were all but wiped out.  


We also saw a funny 19th Century "Union Jack" view of the world:







Almost four years ago, before the pandemic, Ian interviewed me for the podcast. In episodes 38 and 41 we talked about US Army tank training and serving on the Cold War border in Fulda, West Germany. the podcast is audio, but the recording of the second interview about Fulda has more than 7,000 downloads on YouTube.

As we walked toward the train station at the end of the visit, Ian showed me the entrance of a huge underground telecommunications facility built under Manchester during the Cold War. It is still in operation today. 


This was my first visit to Manchester. Now I know the city has much more than a famous football club!! 


Friday, February 10, 2023

Voraigh Sisters--A Paris Boutique of Traditional Clothing


On a very busy boulevard near Bastille on the east side of Paris is the small boutique:

VORAIGH Sisters from Ancient Lands.  They describe the store:

Founded in 2008 by sisters and violinists Olivia & Vivien and their mother Bruna, who taught them a passion for historical and traditional arts. Our workshop is based in a small village not far from Paris, on the edge of the magical forest of Fontainebleau.



I learned about the store from Sarah Gingrich. She found it on line.  Sarah's family accuses her of dressing like a Hobbit (when she is not dressing like a Viking) so this is her kind of shop.

They Voraigh web site describes their business:

Voriagh (synonym of Varangian, in Old Norse: Væringjar; Greek: Βάραγγοι, Βαριάγοι) is the name used by the Byzantine Empire and the Eastern Slavs for the Vikings, (víkingar, from Old Norse) traded from their Northern European homelands across central, eastern and western Europe.

We create in deep connection with nature and ancient lands across Europe, influenced by folklore and ancient crafts. 

Following strict guidelines in terms of sustainability for material and craft, our small structure relies on two skilled families: one in France and one in India, mastering an infinite panel of techniques, completing each other by offering high expertise and traditional embroideries for several generations. In addition to this close relation, we provide transparency and certifications by Oekotex and the BSCI for both structures. 


They make clothes in France:  Our wool and linen items are made in a family workshop in Paris. The atelier is located rue Oberkampf and collaborates exclusively with small designer and/or ethical brands.


And in India:  Our cotton clothes are made in New Delhi by a high end workshop certified by the BSCI, a label based on the most important international Conventions protecting the workers’ rights such as the International Labour Organisation (ILO) Conventions and other important Declarations of the United Nations, the OECD guidelines for multinational enterprises and the UN Global Compact. The BSCI Code includes the ten following key elements to improve the worker´s situation:










The shop is in a lovely neighborhood just north of the Seine on the east side of Paris.

 

Thursday, February 9, 2023

Meeting High School Classmates at a Paris Gallery Opening: Paul Campbell is a Featured Artist


On Tuesday I arrived in Paris and wrote on Facebook that I had an empty row to myself on the flight over.  One of the commenters was Susan Campbell who said she and her husband Paul were in Paris and Paul had an opening at a gallery in the 11th Arrondisment on the east side of Paris toward Vincennes.

I visited the gallery for the opening and had a lovely time talking to Susan and Paul. They had only been to one of the class reunions so we had not seen each other since Stoneham in 1971.  

Paul and Susan live in Brooklyn and Cape Cod, so we are going to get together in the next couple of months before they go off to live in the most well-known beach community in New England.




One of the gallery opening attendees took a picture of the three of us in in front of several of Paul's paintings.  You can see more of Paul's work here.


Saturday, February 4, 2023

Tanks Attack, They are Designed for Offense

 


From their first use as land battleships in World War I, tanks are an attack weapon.  They can be used in defense, but as my last post pointed out, the German force attacking France in 1940 was outnumbered and outgunned by the British and French tanks in defense. And France surrendered in five weeks.  

Speculation is rampant on line and in the media that the Russians will attack in the spring before Ukraine can take delivery of the NATO tanks promised to them recently.  They could be right, but nothing the Russians have done in the past month or the past year gives me much worry that the Russians will put together an overwhelming attack against Ukraine.  

The military generic term for armor is MPF--Mobile Protected Firepower.  This includes not only main battle tanks but armored personnel carriers like the Bradley Fighting Vehicle which the US is sending to Ukraine already.  The Bradley is fast, is armed with a 25mm rapid-fire cannon and can carry an infantry squad into battle.  

With a large number of MPFs and trained crews supported with fuel and ammo, the Ukrainian army can punch through the Russian lines and destroy their command posts and supply lines.  

German Leopard 2 tanks are faster, more reliable and have vastly better gun sights and gun controls than the Russian tanks opposite them.  More importantly, Ukraine has shown in other battles that they will know how to use armor. They will mass their tanks at a weak point in the Russian defense and break through.  

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I bought the t-shirt I am wearing (above) and the Deutsche Panzer Museum.  It says, "Tanks are not Neutral." They are offensive weapons.  I look forward to wearing this shirt while watching or listening to news about Ukrainian victories in the coming year.  

A German soldier I was talking to in the museum said the shirt is also ironic.  The German Army, like many armies and government organization, is trying to use more gender neutral language.  German is a very gendered language and Panzer is a male-gendered word. The shirt is also a protest of making the word Panzer gender neutral.


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